Colombia: trekking into the heartland of the Muisca
Colombia / Latin America / Uncategorized

Colombia: trekking into the heartland of the Muisca

It’s not every day that you get a tattoo while 3,000m up a mountain. My tattooist was a delightful little Colombian named Maruja, and her simple tools were plucked from the Andean mountainside, just as they had been for centuries: a plant, and a pinch of soil. This was no ordinary traveller’s tattoo: this was a Muisca tattoo Continue reading

A Modern Fairytale – Part I
Chile / Creative Writing

A Modern Fairytale – Part I

Clinging to life between sea and storms on the splintered coast of southern Chile, the remote archipelago of ChiloƩ is drenched in fairytale and legend. This soggy Patagonian wilderness is both protected and threatened by the many mythical creatures who govern this part of the world: the evil witch who spews her intestines out every night; the hideous dwarf who impregnates young virgins; the kings, keepers and bloodthirsty villains of the sea. Continue reading

Friday Photo: Bolivia – This is their Land
Bolivia / Photo Gallery

Friday Photo: Bolivia – This is their Land

Three days in a rickety jeep. Three sleepless, aching nights; three icy dawns with the wonder of the sun rising over the widest horizons I’d ever see, watching as my own skinny shadow stretched to the distant mountains. A world composed of salt and volcanoes and boiling water and dust, that made me ache for the sight of a green leaf, a blade of grass, a drop of rain. Life. Continue reading